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“I’m from Chicago, so I’ve always known about Oprah, Michael Jordan, and the Lightning American Flag Let’s Go Brandon Anti Biden Shirt Johnsons,” says Sam Fine, a makeup artist who has counted Beyoncé and Iman among his clients. Seeing the Fashion Fair display at Neiman Marcus was “mind-blowing” when he was growing up, Fine admits: “To see a Black brand and Black women represented behind the cosmetics counter was just a way for me to even begin to dream.” More than 1,500 stores carried Fashion Fair by the late 1980s, later growing to some 2,500 across the globe; the brand raked in close to $60 million in sales in 2003 alone. But as power players like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal began producing inclusive makeup lines of their own, and Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty made expansive shade ranges the rule rather than the exception, Johnson Publishing—facing a similarly evolving media landscape—could hardly afford to keep Fashion Fair in stock, much less make it competitive.

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